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 Vinyes
i Cellers Clua is a tiny winery in the Terra
Alta region in the south of Catalunya. It is a region that
has traditionally produced Garnatxa based wines, both white
and red, and after the recent boom in the Priorat region, attention
is now turning to the nearby Terra Alta. The Clua family has
been making wine in Vilalba dels Arcs for over four generations,
but only since 1995 has the cellar started to bottle its own
wine. |
This
change has been driven by the latest generation of the Clua
family. Xavier Clua i Coma, pictured here in the vineyards,
studied at the oenology university in Tarragona, and after a
period of work experience in Bordeax, returned with an aim to
make great wines from the local grape varieties. To the largely
Garnatxa based vineyards they have added areas of Ull de Llebre,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay to complement the local varieties.
Their most recent plantation has been a small amount of Sauvignon
Blanc, picked for the first time in 2000, it will form part
of the Mas d'en Pol blend from this year on. |
The
key to the quality of their wines starts in the vineyards, as
Xavier prefers to "interfere" as little as possible in the natural
winemaking process. A large proportion of their vineyards are
relatively old vines (30-40 years old), which whilst producing
smaller yields than younger plants, concentrate a great deal
more character into each grape. In the case of the Garnatxa
Negra (left) the vines have been reconverted to run along trellises
for sanitary reasons, and are pruned leaving relatively long
branches to provoke production of a larger number of smaller
grapes. In the case of Mil·lennium,
the cellar's red Criança (barrel aged) wine, the higher
proportion of skin to grape gives extra colour and complexity
to the finished wine. |
In
the case of the white wines, the older Garnatxa vines produce
much more complex wines. One of the main vineyards for Vindemia
is pictured right. The imprint of the red soils of "Argila"
seen in the furthest vineyard is clearly noticeable in the wines.
In the case of Vindemia,
the small percentage of (younger) Chardonnay offers complexity
and additional acidity to the wine. Yields in the region are
lower than in areas like the Penedès, but slightly higher
than those in the Priorat. An area with traditionally very low
rainfall and an altitude of around 400m contributes to the quality
of the grapes. |
The
best way to appreciate these differences is when allowed to
taste the wines separately. Vindemia
is fermented in oak barrels, and the production from the different
vineyards is produced in separate barrels prior to blending
and bottling. The additional complexity of the wine produced
from the older vines was clearly noticeable, as was the sensation
of viscosity. The balance seen in the final product is achieved
as a result of the careful combination of the different characteristics
found in different vineyards. |
 The
winemaking process starts in the vineyards at harvest time,
when each picker picks with two separate boxes. The higher quality
grapes are set aside for the cellar's bottled wines, the rest
is vinified separately and sold "a granell" (in bulk). After
removing the stalks, the grapes are left in a fermenting tank
for 12-24 hours before being pressed using a traditional press.
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After
a short period for the heaviest sediments to precipitate out,
to barrels for fermenting in the case of Vindemia.
The Vindemia ferments in new French-oak barrels, and then is
maintained ageing on the lees (although the heaviest lees are
removed after fermentation) for around nine months. On the right,
Xavier is checking the density of each barrel's wine to control
the progress of fermentation. |
For
the red Mil·lennium,
or Mas
d'en Pol the wine ferments together with the skins in 3000
litre temperature controlled fermenting tanks. The temperature
controlled fermenting tanks (see left) are used both for controlling
the fermentation (lower temperature fermentations maintain more
of the aromatic qualities of the grapes, and at a later stage
to raise the temperature of the wine to provoke a secondary,
"malolactic" fermentation. |
After
an appropriate time in the barrel, the wines are clarified lightly
with egg whites, and after bottling, kept for a further period
prior to being released. The 1998 vintage will be released towards
the end of the year, whilst the 1999 is still in barrels.The
Cellar started producing very small quantities in 1995, with
around a thousand bottles of each wine produced. Making Criança
wines is an expensive business to begin with, needing quality
oak barrels (new each year), with the added problem of not being
able to sell the wines until two years after the Verema
(harvest). |
Production of each wine has increased gradually, and the 1998
vintage, the largest yet will produce around 4000 bottles of
Vindemia,
and around 8000 of the red Mil·lennium,
plus the young Mas
d'en Pol wines, both of which are available at El Celler
Català. A few bottles of each vintage are kept in
what's known as the "cementary" for vertical tastings. As production
has increased, the cellar has been gradually reformed, rebuilding
the underground cellar (completely in stone), and the façade
(see the photo above). |
The
latest addition to the Clua range is a sweet red wine first
produced as an experiment from the 1998 vintage. Partly the
result of a bet, when somebody gave him a wine to taste and
he said "I can do better than that!" the wine was produced with
Garnatxa Negra grapes picked very late in the season, around
November. The single barrel of 1998 was sold in half bottles
to a wine merchant in Zaragoza, leading to Xavi producing three
barrels in 1999. The wine is still unfinished but already has
an extraordinary aroma, and a finish that lasted most of the
way back from Vilalba dels Arcs to our base in Aiguamúrcia
(about an hour's drive away). |
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 |  |  | Mil·lennium 2003
 D.O. Terra Alta - Click here for cellar profile 65% Garnatxa Negre, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Ull de Llebre
 EUR18.00 |  |  |  |  | Vindemia 2002
 D.O. Terra Alta - Click here for cellar profile 75% Garnatxa Blanca, 15% Chardonnay, 10% Sauvignon Blanc
 EUR18.00 |  |  |  |  | Mas d'en Pol Blanc 2006
 D.O. Terra Alta - Click here for cellar profile 60% Garnatxa Blanca, 20% Chardonnay, 15% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Moscatel
 EUR5.95 |  |  |  |  | Mas d'en Pol Negre 2005
 D.O. Terra Alta - Click here for cellar profile 60% Garnatxa, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Ull de llebre, 20% Syrah
 EUR5.95 |  |
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